One of the biggest problems facing the retail clothing industry is achieving proper fit for a garment, and the costs associated with realizing this fit. This problems embraces both the custom made or fitted apparel markets, as well as ready-made or so called “off the rack” garments.
One of the most significant costs realized by the retail ready-made clothing industry is the return of merchandise due to improper fit. Many factors can be said to contribute to this problems, including the fact that many customers do not know their size in a particular manufacturer's clothing line, and most manufacturers have developed their own systems for sizing. Accordingly, to achieve a somewhat proper fit, customers shopping at typical brick and mortal retail establishments often try on three or four different size garments from a given manufacturer's clothing line to determine which size fits their body properly. This is both time consuming and frustrating. For the mail order catalog, internet, and home shopping industry, where customer's do not have the benefit of trying on multiple garments, returns are one of the biggest drawbacks of selling fashions. A detailed description of the problems associated with retail sales of off the rack clothing is further described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,930,769 issued to Rose on Jul. 27, 1999 for a System and Method for Fashion Shopping.
As previously mentioned, it is time consuming and costly, both to the consumer and clothing manufacturer to achieve the proper fit for clothing purchased “off the rack”. In fact, it is very rare for the nearest standardized size of an article of clothing for sale from the rack to fit properly. One survey, cited in U.S. Pat. No. 5,548,519, issued to Sung K. Park on Aug. 20, 1996, for a custom apparel manufacturing apparatus and method, found that only two percent of the population is correctly fitted by an available standard sized article of clothing without any alteration. Consequently, any expense saved by purchasing mass produced clothing at a lower cost than custom tailored clothing is partially lost when a seamstress or tailor is paid to make alterations to the article of clothing. Other costs and problems associated with purchasing ready-made clothing for further alteration is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,956,525, issued to Minsky on Sep. 21, 1999 for a Method of Measuring Body Measurements for Custom Apparel Manufacturing.
Similarly, a basic problem in making fitted apparel in a cost effective manufacturing system has been determining how to capture a person's body dimensions so that a piece of clothing can be constructed to fit the customer well, without undue expense for the manufacturer, retailer or consumer.
There are currently several methods being used to obtain information about an individual's body, personal style and fit preferences so that custom made clothing for that individual can be manufactured.
The “Custom” Method
The Custom Method involves a highly skilled and trained tailor thoroughly measuring the individual's body dimensions with a vinyl tape measure and determining the individual's posture and shoulder angles by eye. The tailor determines the individual's style preferences by either showing him or her drawings from a “style book”, or clothing that the tailor has produced for other individuals. The individual's fit preferences are usually determined by asking the individual whether he or she prefers his or her clothing “tight, lose, or average”. Also, the tailor might examine the garment the individual is wearing and ask if its fit is satisfactory. The tailor might then take dimensions from that garment.
Using this information, the tailor then drafts a first pattern by hand for that particular individual on inexpensive fabric, often called “muslin”, which he would fit on the individual at a later date. Based on this fitting, the tailor then makes a second paper pattern by hand, from which the individual's actual cloth would be cut. Usually this garment is only partially sewn when the customer returns for another fitting and further corrections to the pattern are made. The process can be repeated 4 or 5 more times until the garment is completed.
Although the custom method results in some of the best fitting garments, there are several deficiencies associated with this method. First, the tailor must be of the highest skill possible to accurately obtain the necessary measurements. Few tailors today are trained as true custom tailors and possess this skill. In addition, there are far fewer custom tailors today than in the past, with most custom tailors being in there 70's and 80's.
Another deficiency with the custom method involves the consistency, or inconsistency in measurements. Even skilled tailors measure individuals inconsistently, either by varying where they place their tape on the individual's body or how tight they hold the tape each time. This inconsistency oftentimes leads to unnecessary additional fittings.
The custom fitting process is also quite lengthy, taking from 2-4 months to produce a man's suit. Several factors may contribute to this deficiency, including the trial and error inherent in the custom fitting process, and the limitations on the tailor's time if he or she has many customers.
In addition, because the custom tailor is rarely a trained designer, he or she usually has a “house” style. As a consequence, most garments produced look similar with the exception of detailing.
Finally, quality custom clothing is very expensive. A man's suit produced from superior material can cost between $4,000 and $8,000.
The “Made-To-Measure” Method
Another method used to obtain information about an individual's body, personal style and fit preferences so that custom made clothing for that individual can be manufactured is the made-to-measure method. In this method, a skilled and trained tailor measures an individual's body dimensions with a vinyl tape measure, but less thoroughly than in the custom made scenario because the tailor is only trying to determine an approximate size for a garment for the individual to try on. The tailor must have a selection of ready-made garments on hand and he or she uses his or her knowledge of this inventory to select an appropriate “try-on” garment. From this try-on, the tailor determines a style and fit preferences by questioning the individual about his or her satisfaction with the try-on. If necessary, the tailor may select another size or style garment for the individual to try on. An advantage of made-to-measure over custom made garments is the ability to offer garments in a multiple of styles.
The tailor then uses the garment that comes closest to the individual's size, style and fit preferences as a basis to analyze what changes need to be made to create a better fit. The tailor will then examine the garment for incongruities from what he or she considers a good fit. Posture and shoulder angles are analyzed only if the garment is showing incongruities from a proper fit in those areas. The tailor must also determine from experience how much of a change needs to be made to correct the incongruity. The tailor then make notes of these corrections that are then transmitted to a clothing factory. Based on the tailor's notes, the garment factory will alter a standard pattern in the size and style of the try-on to correct the fit incongruities that the tailor observed. These alterations to the standard pattern may be done by hand or, more typically, in a CAD/CAM system.
The garment usually arrives from the factory in a completed or near-completed state for a fitting on the individual. The tailor will then pin or chalk any alterations that need to be made on the garment. Typically, the process involves fewer fittings then in the custom method. A made-to-measure garment usually costs half the amount of a custom one because more standardized processes are involved.
Like the custom method, there are several deficiencies presented by the made-to-measure method. First, the tailor must have a very high skill level. He or she must have a keen eye for diagnosing the fit incongruities based on the try-on garment. In many cases a try-on garment may bulge or show tightness that can originate from more than one source. For example, a ripple may appear below an individual's neck at the back of a coat because the individual's shoulders are square or because a coat is tight across the back. Depending on the tailor's diagnosis, a different alteration to the individual's pattern will result.
Secondly, there can also be false positives, in other words, instances where a try-on garment does not exhibit a fit problem but in fact one does exist. These false positives can be created by a variety of factors including the fabric of the try-on accommodating the problem, where the fabric that will actually be used in making the made-to-measure garment will not.
In addition the tailor must have the skill to know which alterations not to do. For example, a man with an extremely low right shoulder should not have the shoulder lowered to the full extent necessary because he will look too lopsided. Instead, the shoulder should be lowered half the amount and a thicker shoulder pad should make up the difference.
Finally, there must be a try-on in the customer's approximate size or the process does not work.
The “Body Scan” Method
This new and so far unproven method attempts to do away with the skilled tailor by using body-scanning machines. In concept, the body scanner is located in a retail store or shopping mall for the use of several stores. The individual stands on a platform in a state of undress, usually in a tight-fitting body suit. Although there are different types of body scanners, the goal is to obtain accurate and complete body measurements, including posture and shoulder angles. Typically, no try-on garment is used as a basis for finding fit incongruities or to obtain an individual's feedback. The individual has simply selected a preferred style within the store or from a catalog. At this point, the body scan method is very much like the custom method except no skilled tailor is involved. However, unlike the custom method, the individual's body scan measurements are turned over to a computer program for analysis. The program compares the individual's measurements to the actual pattern measurements of the garment style the individual prefers. In theory, the computer's analysis would result in a modified pattern that would fit the individual perfectly. The pricing for this process is, as yet, unknown.
Similar to the other methods, there are distinct deficiencies associated with the body scan method. First, the body scan process is still unproven. Although the process may work in theory, the results obtained in actual use have been uncertain at best.
Second, the process requires knowing the dimensions of every pattern piece in every size, since the measurements taken by the body scan will be compared to the dimensions of the each pattern piece. For example, the body scan dimensions of a customer's thigh will be compared to the dimensions of the pattern pieces of the trouser which make up the thigh area. To make this comparison, the dimensions of each pattern piece for the thigh must be known. In addition, the process requires knowing the allowance for air space or comfort for every pattern piece over the individual's actual body dimensions. These factors are usually what define a garment's style and any miscalculation may result in a loss of style. These problem will be particularly acute with loose fitting clothing. The tight fitting body suits worn by the individuals during the body scan are also a source of inaccuracy. These suits are made from a resilient material, such as spandex or lycra, and act as a girdle on the scanned individual. This results in scanned measurements that are smaller than the actual dimensions of the individual. In addition, many of the readings from the body scan must be interpreted. For example, a man's waist might measure 42 inches, but larger size waists usually compress and the man would actually take a 41 inch waist trouser.
Another deficiency inherent with the body scan method is that fit and style preferences can only be determined through conversations with the individual, since the individuals measurements are being taken virtually. This rather nebulous method, without more, makes it difficult for the scanned individual to express exactly what fit and style they desire. For example, the only way to determine how the scanned individual would like the garment to fit is by posing the question to the individual. The individual does not have the benefit of trying on a garment and saying they would like the arm length longer or shorter, or the waist tighter or looser. Similarly, style preferences may be determined only from showing the individual photographs or sample garments not necessarily in his or her size.
Finally, in some cases the literal translation of measurements from a body scan to a pattern will create an unattractive effect. For example, if an individual has a small waist and a large seat, it will make the individual look pear-shaped if the waist is taken in to the extent of the body scan measurements.
In addition, there are efforts underway to use body scanners to predict a customer's size for ready-made clothing. These efforts are based on comparing the customer's body scan with pattern dimensions for the ready made clothing. As explained above in the section on making custom clothing, this is a flawed concept.
What is need is a system and method that will make the creation of custom clothing less dependent on the skill of traditionally trained tailors.
What is further needed is a system and method that will provide consumer with clothing that meets their expectation of style and fit without the need for expensive fitting by a trained tailor.
Another need is for a system and method that may incorporate new technologies, such as the body scan method, with the knowledge and skill of trained professional tailors so that clothing for that individual can be selected and/or manufactured.
What is further needed is a system and method to obtain information about an individual's body, personal style and fit preferences so that clothing for that individual can be selected and/or manufactured.